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Pub Guide

Lord John Russell - St. Neots

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Issue 142 Spring 2010

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GOOD BEER GUIDE TOUR

Part one of my tour report ended at the Buckingham Arms in London followed by a frantic dash to Kings Cross station. I made it back to St Neots in time for the branch meeting.

The next morning I headed off to Dorset and the village of Worth Matravers. The Square and Compass is at the heart of the village with panoramic views over the Purbeck Hills to the English Channel but my first stop was the village cafe for a restorative afternoon tea.

Then I worked up a thirst by trying out my new iPod on a walk over to St Alban’s Head. Perhaps it was the afternoon sunshine but the pub was strangely quiet by day.

When I returned in the early evening the coffers were being swollen by the not inconsiderable spending power of the cricket team discussing the first day’s play of the Ashes series.

The pub even has its own book on sale at the bar. According to ‘The Square and Compass – a Newman Century’ the earliest recorded evidence of the pub dates from 1772 and the stone floors, fossil museum, nooks, crannies and open fireplace all add to the character. As befits the 2008 national Cider Pub of the Year, drinkers had a choice of seven ciders but I refreshed myself with Palmer’s Copper Ale, Dartmoor IPA and two local pasties.

My next destination was Helston in Cornwall, a 190 mile ride but under sunny skies. The Blue Anchor is a rambling 15th century building with what’s believed to be the oldest private brewery in the country.

I met Pete the brewer who told me about the range of Spingo beers. Spingo is believed to be a derivation of ‘stingo’, an ancient generic name for very strong beer and the range includes Jubilee (4.5%), Middle (5%), Bragget (6%) and Special (6.8%). Bragget is claimed to be a ‘true’ ale brewed without any hops and is based on honey and apples. The local tin miners were once paid their wages in the Blue Anchor; let’s hope they stayed off the Special!

My penultimate day on the road had me retracing my steps back up the M5, the A38 and the A30. The village of Kilmington lies between Honiton and Axminster and the New Inn is a classic 14th century thatched Devon longhouse. After a short trip of only 113 miles I had plenty of time for a lunchtime pint before a walk into Axminster. Given the time of day I chose the Palmer’s Copper Ale (3.7%), electing to leave the Best Bitter (4.2%) and Dorset Gold (4.5%) for later in the day when I was promised an excellent meal by the locals. Sure enough the meal was the best of my trip. The pub itself was probably the ‘classiest’ without being ostentatious and in stark contrast to places like the Queen’s Head and The Square and Compass.

After just over 1500 miles my tour came to an end just before 3pm on the tenth day. Nine pubs which encompassed the complete range of what the British pub has to offer: quirkiness; comfort; history; atmosphere and not forgetting unpredictable opening hours! I’d recommend the trip to anyone but now there are only seven left. The Blue Anchor and the Sow ‘n’ Pigs didn’t make it into the 2010 guide. If you do fancy the trip then please let me know as I’d love to actually get inside the Star in Netherton next time. But let’s check the opening hours first.

Keith Lawson